May end 2018. It had a been rough time generally for some months. Chaos of the things happening around, the stress, summer heat & humidity and daily rigmarole left me wanting for a quiet time away from all this madness. A getaway where I could relax and unwind most certainly in the lap of nature. Finally when the opportunity came in the form a possible break for a couple of days, I wanted to visit Kerala to experience the first showers of monsoon. Inspiration was the book I read, “Chasing the Monsoon: A Modern Pilgrimage through India” by Alexander Frater, gifted to me by dear friend who knew I was crazy about monsoons. The author literally chases the arrival of South west monsoons in India from Kerala to Meghalaya.

But there was a problem. A couple of weeks back North Kerala had reported cases of the deadly Nipah virus. A highly contagious and fatal outbreak. By end of two weeks over 2000 people were quarantined in Kozhikode and Malapuram district and more than a dozen had succumbed. I was keen to have a relaxing couple of days and hence wanted to stay Taj hotels to experience their famed hospitality. I inquired around and got to know that Kumarakom 280 Kilometers away from the epicenter of the breakout and the breakout itself was almost under control with no cases in the 200 km radius. Convinced I booked and flew out in a weeks time.

1st Week of June. Almost end of this week. Rains had just started a couple of days back in Kerala. As we landed at Kochi airport the clouds and lush green landscape welcomed our arrival. It was beautiful. Kerala is truly a nature lover’s paradise. I chose to stay at the iconic Taj Kumarakom. Located on the banks of the Majestic and magnificently huge Lake Vembanad, this heritage property is a perfect blend of culture, nature and cuisine. On one side you have lake Vemband, On another a shared boundary with the Kumarakom bird sanctuary and on the third you have the placid backwaters lined beautifully with swaying palms and greenery. The property itself is a vintage 150 year old traditional and rustic bungalow which was built by Henry Baker, an English missionary now converted to a Resort and Spa. The adjoining Villas and rooms in the property maintain the same rustic feel and vintage interiors. It was a dream location.

After freshening up and resting for a while, we set out to explore the property. It was not just lush green but also had tall trees with so many birds around – no wonder as it shared a boundary with the bird sanctuary. It was drizzling with heavy clouds covering the sky. We made it to other end of the property, the majestic banks of Lake Vembanad. It was surreal. So huge, So Pregnant and So Full to the brim. With the monsoon winds the waves lashing at the banks. It was a sight a behold. There was something very dramatic and very serene to this entire landscape unfolding in front of me. On one hand it felt as if something was about to unravel from that filled to brim pregnant looking lake and on the other it was an absolutely calming balm to my nerves. It was absolutely mesmerizing, wind sweeping our faces , the light drizzle cooling things down, the quaint house boats bobbing on the lake and swaying palms almost kissing the lake. The air felt electrified in anticipation of an approaching storm. It felt like the sky above was about to open up. I felt like just sitting there till eternity.

As we retraced our steps back to our room, it started raining heavily. We took shelter in a gazebo on the way. We were surrounded by trees on three sides and in front of us was the tranquil lagoon snaking through inside the property. It was a beautiful sight to see the rainfall through the trees falling on the lagoon. The sheets of increasingly tempestuous showers were pounding the pathways and trees, plants and leaves looked glossy as they danced in its wake totally consumed and serenaded to the roots. Its so amazing to see how one bout of rain showers awaken the greens and the plants look so rejuvenated so alive and so fresh. Though we sat in the gazebo, the winds accompanying the rain left no stone un-turned to drench us. It was like the chaos outside stopped the chaos within and at once calmed me down. Standing there feeling the rain on my face cascading and soaking me down felt like heavenly embrace. Within a few hours of my landing there, I felt quenched.

After the rain showers the place looked more beautiful and full of life. The entire flora and fauna around the place seemed awake and fresh. The dusty brown earth turns to deep mahogany, the plants shine a deep emerald and as the setting sun tries to breach through the heavy cloud cover, the skies burst in a kaleidoscope culmination to a glorious day. Isn’t it magical that dark grey/black clouds can bring in so much life with them. Evening was equally fulfilling with sumptuous warm dinner which we savored listening to soothing live performance by musicians playing their instruments and a Mohini Attam dancer dancing gracefully. Couldn’t have expected a better wrap up of the day.

Early morning accompanied with the guide we went on a trail inside the bird sanctuary. As expected it started raining heavily minutes into our trek inside the sanctuary, we were prepared with our windcheaters which allowed us to walk freely and enjoy the rain while keeping us fairly dry. The narrow winding paths inside the mini forest were slushy and now with free flowing rain water. It was an adventure and we had a ball stomping about and walking in the rain. The narrow path is beautiful with backwater lagoon on one side with village and houses lining across the lagoon. So many boats which sometimes doubled up as houses. The lagoons were almost filling up with heavy rains. We saw thousands of bats and heard the racket of the birds and insects as we walked along the forest path. After about 45 minutes or so we reached half way through. Just as we turned we stumbled upon the lake shore. It was the most beautiful sight where the lake opened up from the curtains of the forests’ huge trees. Such a joy it was to see the lake after the long walk. Waves lashing away at the banks and trees whose branches had embraced the lake. Lake looked more beatutiful when seen through the canopy of the tree branches. There was a seat but with the heavy rains it was wet. Hence we had to make do by standing for a few mins, after soaking in the scene to our hearts’ content we continued our way.

Shortly we reached a watching tower, whose slippery steps we had to climb carefully. Once we reached the top we realized it was covered like bird watching hides are to ensure we don’t encroach upon their space or disturb them. The tower reached almost the top of the tallest trees and beyond which there was a small depression like a oasis within the forest. where we could see hundreds of birds nesting and chirping and spending time with families. It was a sight I had never ever seen. It was the breeding season of resident wetland birds such as white ibis, Little cormorant, egrets and herons, Indian Darter, kingfishers etc. and Siberian Cranes which occurs between June and August. Watching scores and scores of birds with their families was an overwhelming and emotional experience. If this doesn’t melt your heart or make you smile then I don’t know what else will. We stayed for a few more minutes , saw them to our hearts content , wished them well and trekked our way back to the resort with our hearts filled with love.

Evenings ,depending the weather, we would be taken on a house boat ride on the lake. Standing at the deck watching the boat glide on the boundary less lake towards the horizon was like a sight straight out of a movie as if screened by nature for us. I have taken boat rides innumerable times on Oceans, Lakes, Seas, Rivers and yes done rafting on rapids as well. And each and every single time it has not failed to enthrall me. Next day was even more heavenly. Winds were boisterous both in sound and speed. Had to hold on to the railings around the banks to maintain my balance. Those winds were different, it was as if they carried wild vortices within them, whipping every single thing that came in its way. The lake dangerously seemed poised to overflow any minute. A scene that will remain forever etched in my memories. We had to skip the lake boat ride, instead we turned about and went on a boat ride on the back waters which was an exact anti Climax to the scene at the lake. The gracefully swaying palms, the occasional sighting of the king fishers the quaint bridges over the back water and houses that lined the lagoon were postcard picture perfect. You need to see it to believe it. Nothing , absolutely nothing can be more beautiful than this.

On our penultimate day we went on a pilgrimage, called the “Moksha Tour”. As per the local folklore if you visit all the four ancient hundreds of years old Shiva temples in the 20 kms vicinity of Kumarakom early morning in one single tour without a break and breakfast you will attain Moksha. I believe faith can move mountains and seeking solace in spirituality only strengthens your mind more. After visiting these beautiful temples, seeking Darshan of Lord Shiva , soaking in the early morning Pooja (Worship) and sounds of bells and drums and seeing scores of people lighting lamps I felt more a peace and happy. The collective positive energies inside the temple has a deep everlasting impact on you.

As I set on our return journey I was certainly rejuvenated Mentally, Physically and Spiritually (And dare I say Gastronomically ;-)). I felt more calm, at peace and raring to go face the world again!! I know sound quite dramatic, I am sure you know that is exactly how I felt 🙂 Memories of that monsoon trip is still fresh in my mind will always bring a smile and will stay with me for a long long time.