21st April 2019 – Easter, as the breaking news trickled in of the horrific blasts in Sri Lanka, I sat numb looking at the images of the carnage. The senseless killing of hundreds of people including women and children was horrifying. Despite belonging to a city that has been ravaged not once but many times by terror, it was still unfathomable. Something that you will never come to terms with, something that you will always question and try to find answers in vain. Something despite which you will still bounce back and stand on your two feet. Something that is known as the spirit of Mumbaikar.

However this time it was different. The attack was on this tiny island nation with a large heart (something that I discovered soon enough). I was supposed to travel to Sri Lanka on a vacation with my kid and family 3 weeks later in the first week of May. With the attacks , all the plans seemed to go haywire. What followed were days of anxious tracking of the news, twitter updates, travel advisory and calls to the tour operators. We had to wait, as the wounds were fresh, they were unanticipated and had shook this entire island nation. Reports came in of an emergency being declared with curfew both on movement and on the data network. The only source of news was official news and travel advisories from the embassies of the various countries including India.

As days turned into weeks, news of the determined crackdown came through, with the country’s defense forces rising to the occasion and doing a commendable job of taking quick action. Almost after two weeks the situation was deemed close to normal wrt movement and curfew being slowly lifted and data networks being opened up again. A day before we supposed to leave, we deliberated on all aspects, including checking with local tour operators and India embassy advisory. Finally after knowing that the hotels, tourist places, flights were all open and running normal finally, we took a leap of faith and decided to go ahead with our travel plans. Little did we know what awaited us.

As we landed early morning on 7th May, barely 3 weeks after the attack, a very tight security in and around Colombo and a smiling driver welcomed us. He was so apologetic as he couldn’t get the vehicle inside the airport due to security, we had to walk the distance outside the airport in public parking area. His swanky looking Toyota vehicle was cool and comfy and he in his somewhat broken English very warm. That’s when our wonderful trip to this island nation began.

While I don’t remember much of the next couple of hours on our drive to Kandy as I drifted in and out of sleep, except seeing empty roads and defense personnel across the Colombo city and outskirts, I do remember his warm demeanor with a hint of concern but reassurance that everything will be fine and we dont have to worry about anything at all. He did ensure that more than we anticipated over the next six days till the time he dropped us off to Colombo.

Our adventure began even before we reached our hotel in Kandy the hill city. The approach road to the hotel was really steep, like almost 70 degrees (if not 80 degrees) incline. We were 5 of us plus the driver in the car, with all our luggage and we had to climb up to the one of the highest points in the city to reach our hotel. We clung to our seats hanging on for our dear lives holding the handlebars as he wound up the incline and finally took a left turn in front of what we thought was our hotel. Just as we heaved a sigh of relief, he announced the hotel is right across slightly more up on the incline and not here, A full blown panic attack struck us. He had to reverse the vehicle DOWN the incline on the road we took a left from, take a pause and then switch gears to accelerate in order to climb UP again. We had our hearts in our mouth, literally, as he went down, I almost thought our car will turn turtle and we’ll go hurtling down the hill when he paused on that incline for a split second to switch gears. BUT for him and his impeccable driving skills we survived, we reached our hotel unscathed. This adventurous welcome set the tone for the trip.

After freshening up post a minor incident (but a major embarrassment) involving my suitcase TSA lock getting jammed which had to pried and broken open, We set out to have our breakfast. Again down that incline, this time the palpitation was lesser as we knew his driving skills, but scared we were. Holding tightly to the handlebars as if that will really help. Anyways we reached the city center and he parked the vehicle in the parking area, While he had to take the ticket etc for the same, he guided us to path which led to the restaurant we wanted to visit. Thanks to Google baba for all the research we had done. Ravenous as we were with hunger after travelling the night and morning, we were looking for a particular dosa place. The footpath was narrow as we made our way ahead, a lady brushed past me. She turned around and was so apologetic that I felt really guilty at seeing her so apologetic. I reassured her it was OK and I was not hurt or anything and after exchanging warm smiles she went her way. Just couple of shops away we saw the Dosa place, we were so hungry that we didnt bother to check the name of the place and just asked for Veg and Dosa as they responded in affirmative, we entered and placed our orders.

Just as we were midway between having our breakfast, our driver came looking for us. He looked a bit hassled and worried, when we enquired why he said we were in the wrong restaurant. As we almost part spit out and part gulped in the morsel, he said he got worried as he didn’t see in the restaurant we were supposed to go, and he searched for us frantically!! He felt responsible for us and our blunder in hunger led him to despair. We had actually entered a restaurant few shops before the actual one we were supposed to go. The taste in the food immediately drained out and we quickly wrapped up and left. Next day despite having breakfast at the hotel, he ensured we visited the intended restaurant, had our fill of dosas however this time he accompanied us to avoid any further glitches.

Those smiles in the streets from strangers were a standard for us where we went across Sri Lanka. Random strangers smiling at us, shop keepers and sales persons ever so gracious, the security personnel so kind yet doing their job so diligently that we didn’t feel the unsafe for a moment. Despite multiple layers of security check including thorough checks of our bags and being patted for full body checks at most the tourist locations we never felt hassled. Our vehicle which was our home during day time was stopped multiple times for security and our passports checked at every stop. They were so polite, kind, welcoming and took so much effort to make us feel at home. Their guns or uniform not intimidating us tourists at all. Their instructions were clear and polite, always ready to help and respond to our queries. Always wishing us a wonderful stay before leaving. Our driver always few steps away to keep a watch on us, being our Guide, Translator , Photographer and an ever smiling travel companion with us. He looked like the famous cricketer Sanath Jayasuriya’s twin brother 🙂 , Tall, Well built with strong arms, shining bald head and a wide ear to ear smile.

He understood our preferences , namely – Food, Photography and Shopping though in any particular order but all equally important 🙂 . He would never intrude on our personal space and but also never compromise on our safety. As me and my son stepped in the beach at Bentota he stood on the edge of waves, his trousers bunched up till his knee ready to dive in , in case we got swept away. He instructed us multiple times with last couple times in a firm voice to stay away from the beach at night , when he saw us and kid getting too excited after reaching the beach town in the night. He was there to offer a hand when we climbed up the tea plantation and stood at the side of the road till we crossed over to our vehicles. When we went boating , he was there to hold our hands and our bags/camera and my kid as well !!

We almost missed the visitor timings at Pinnawala Elephant orphanage, due to earlier spots and lunch taking up most of the time. Driver raced ahead to take tickets with his own card to ensure we don’t miss seeing the gentle giant elephants of Pinnawala. Such was the intensity with which he dashed that he was panting by the time he came back with tickets and ushered us urgently to catch a glimpse of the elephants bathing before they were taken back to the shelter. We couldn’t help be amazed at his energy.

The entire stretch between Bentota and Galle is pristine beach. Golden sands, aquamarine waters, swaying palms and a sparkling clean beach with no soul for kilometers. We went wow and wow and wow, our driver had resolved not to stop till we reach Galle to cover all places…but he gave in though he chided and admonished us politely , undone with us going Wow every second, he said. OK get down and take your pics. We couldn’t but laugh and go awwwww at him despite his slight irritation. he still smiled. He still stood at the edge of waters as our life guard.

With the tight security at airport we had to reach 4 hrs prior to our flight back to India. However on my way airport, my one wish of carrying back an exquisite Sri Lankan Batik saree remained elusive. At none of the places we visited was I able to get the one I was looking for. On the way just saw a glimpse of the shop which displayed that saree, our driver saw that look on my face and stopped to ensure that wish of mine is fulfilled.

He was so reluctant to accept the T shirts we got for his young son and after so much of requesting and cajoling he finally agreed, but next day he didn’t return empty handed. He got a map of Srilanka with all the places that we visited and the route we took marked with details as a souvenir for my son.

All the places we visited, one thing was a constant. Almost empty tourist spots , a sparkling clean roads and almost zero occupants at resorts. At Bentota , Kandy and Nuwara Eliya we were one of the two families of tourists in that entire resort and in Colombo we were the only occupants of that hotel !! Post Easter attacks the biggest impact was to the tourism industry . A country for which tourism is one of the major sustenance source of revenue, this was a big jolt. You will expect people to be disillusioned, bitter or dejected, but not the warm and resilient Sri Lankans. Right from the chefs to house keeping staff, the receptionist and security made us feel so very welcome and treated us with so much warmth. The Chefs would ask our preferences and custom make wherever needed to suit our needs. Their pain never once visible or displayed making us feel everything is fine and business as usual. No one complain or make crib about their situation despite so many cancellations and a near dud tourist season. All greeting us with a gracious “Ayubowan – a greeting in Sri Lanka which means Long life” .

We were awestruck with this nation and its people. The way they have maintained the country and its Infrastructure, the cleanliness, the places and the people. We could walk across the city even in night without feeling unsafe. At Galle , the erstwhile fort city , was a fortress with defense personnel lining every street and every corner. With multiple such soldiers in every street guarding the ramparts and the city within. This place a Europeans’ Favorite destination with continental restaurants and cafe’s across the town. Despite that this city holds up its indigenous character and ethos of Sri Lanka. As we saw the sun go down on the Araban sea sitting atop the ramparts at Galle one could not but wonder at its resilience , the storms it had seen, the gun hits it had taken on its walls, the warships in the distance and waves it braved each day. All reminiscent of the character and soul of Sri Lanka. We were bowled over, warmed in its embrace and filled with its generosity and warmth. A small island country which had just recently faced its worse attack ever on humanity and on its very heart, was big enough to welcome and charm us in every manner. While each Sri Lankan we came across acted as our guardian angles, our Driver was our Knight in Shining Armor. He was our hero. He represented Sri Lanka and its soul in such difficult times. Such are the stories that you remember more than sights we saw.